Index
Day 1: Flying
Days 2/3: Nagano Snow Shuttle
Day 4: Shiga-Kogen
Day 5: Shiga-Kogen
Day 6: Yudanaka
Day 7: Shiga-Kogen
Day 8: Shiga-Kogen
Day 9: Shiga-Kogen
Day 10: Shinkansen
Day 11: Hakushu
Day 12: Toyosu Fish Market
Japan
With day 2 of the trip lost due to the vagaries of the international date line (as well as my sleeping through it), ANA flight 105 arrived over an hour early to Tokyo Haneda. The lights were turned on more than 2 hours before landing (wtf?) for meal service, and since the lights were on, I figured I might as well eat, even tho it was closer to 2:00am than any civilized hour. The actual arrival was just before 4:30am, which was all that more miserable than the scheduled 5:30am.
At least with such an early arrival, taking the shuttle bus from Terminal 2 to Terminal 3, then finding a bench to sleep on was not too arduous a task, and a not-so-restful series of cat naps commenced until the Nagano Snow Shuttle check-in desk opened. Dropped off my ski bag with them, then had just enough time to run upstairs to the Yoshinoya at the food court for a quick meal before having to collect my bags and head to the Nagano Snow Shuttle bus.
The bus ride is quite convenient, comfortable enough for three hours (although not luxurious), and Japanese rest stops are pretty awesome, larger and nicer than their equivalents in most other places. The second stop was Oyaki Farm, at the outskirts of Nagano, where some (including myself) boarded far smaller buses for the last 30 minutes or so to the hotel/hotel drop-off areas. Here the experience broke down a bit, the drop-off zone for myself and one other passenger was a roadside rest stop again, and arranging final pick-up was quite unclear. My hotel wasn't on WhatsApp and I couldn't call for some reason, but fortunately Japan Powder Culture Tours was able to send a bus to grab us.
Yudanaka Yumoto is one of the oldest ryokan in the area, more than 350 years old, and it shows. The building itself is massive given how few rooms it offers (maybe due to the need to renovate the other rooms?), the tree-lined area behind is beautiful, and the private onsen, complete with outdoor pool, is quite the mix of both rather dated and yet incredibly scenic. The owners are extremely hospitable, and the overall experience is lovely, so long as you are okay with the quirks of staying in such a historic building.
Evening activities got into full swing as Japan Powder Culture Tours picked all the new arrivals for the day up, did a quick briefing, and then we all ended up at dinner at Goen, one of the local restaurants that has a good relationship with JPTC. About the only mix-up in what was otherwise a very friendly, very casual evening was the food ordering, but in the end everyone had a good laugh, and the chirashi was quite good. Also in evidence was the local love of mushrooms in cooking, something that would become much more apparent as the trip progressed.