Index
Day 1 - Flying
Day 2 - World Cup
Day 3 - Buenos Aires
Day 4 - Ushuaia
Day 5 - Drake Passage
Day 6 - Antarctic Circle
Day 7 - Antarctica
Day 8 - Antarctica
Day 9 - Antarctica
Day 10 - Antarctica
Day 11 - Antarctica
Day 12 - Drake Shake
Day 13 - Ushuaia
Day 14 - Return
Antarctica
Overnight, we crossed north of the Antarctic Circle, from Skog Bay up to Petermann Island. Groussac Refuge, an Argentine naval refuge smack among a Gentoo penguin colony, was the morning's landing. Saw a few other penguins mixed in the very vocal Gentoos, including an Adelie penguin doing a very intense preening job.
Lunch was a very tasty turkey pot pie as we sailed through the through the Wilhelm Archipelago on the way to Pleneau Island. More seals and more birds on the afternoon landing, including some nest-building gentoos and one caught mid-poop (and we wonder why penguin rooks smell so bad!). Plenty of evidence of penguin highways between the rocks as well, and as we headed back to shore, our ship's sister ship, the National Geographic Endurance, made an appearance among the icebergs graveyard nearby.
While the other half of the guests got their turn on land, the half I was with cruised among the iceberg graveyard, took a few minutes to meet up with a zodiac from the National Geographic Resolution and exchange sightseeing tips, soaked in some more views of the ice, and then headed back to the ship in time for the chef's table dinner at C.Green's. All guests onboard get one dinner at the chef's table, and as far as "fine" dining experiences go... well, let's just say I have had far worse on land. This one was most definitely venue and theme appropriate, honoring Shackleton's journey from 1914-1917, including the very namesake of the National Geographic Endurance.
Menu items included a starter course including ceviche and chimichurri, a "wave" cracker that would have been an absurd gimmick anywhere except here, fennel and leek soup, potato/corn/cheese croquette, and an attempt to replicate the sea with Patagonian toothfish, king scallop, and parsley-lemon foam. That and the lamb pot pie probably would have missed the mark at a Michelin star, but for a thousand miles from the nearest city, the artfulness was appreciated. A rather straightforward scotch followed by hidden sticky date pudding that you melted the chocolate shell prior to eating were the final two courses, and the end experience was quite enjoyable.
One more surprise for the trip was being joined by the National Geographic Resolution for the cruise through the Lemaire Channel. The crew said this had never been done before, and as the twin ships cut through the icy waters the excitement of both passengers and crew was palatable. Dark rock and snow on each side, the reflections of each ship on the water, it was another unique experience, right down to the point where, out of the Lemaire Channel, the National Geographic Resolution pulled a hard turn to port to continue her own journey through Antarctica.
Finally wandered to the Ice Lounge on deck 6 after dinner to find out some other guests playing board games. Cover your A$$ets was quick and easy to learn, although I almost regretted not working on my ridiculous photo backlog instead.