El Rastro, a big flea market, was the morning's goal. Spanning multiple blocks up and down, bordering a little Chinese enclave (Guangdong restaurants?!), and even in the dead of winter, a full compliment of vendors. Ceramics, gas masks, cacti, sunglasses, antiques, t-shirts, leather goods...
Cafe con nata and cafe con creme at Cafe Comercial next, one of the oldest cafes in Madrid. Much like everything else so far in Madrid, it too lived up to its billing-- lots of atmosphere, yet a modern vibe that marked its continued relevance in today's world. Followed things up with bread tapas and pizza for lunch from Mercado de San Miguel and shops nearby, plus more wandering.
Dinner was at Casa 9, a very modern place with great arroyo (rice), calamari, and lamb, plus we finally stopped by km.0 (kilometer 0) right in Puerta del Sol to gawk at the marker designating the very center of Spain's highway network.